There are six main hill tribes found in Northern Thailand. Each tribe is divided into clans or sub-groups, which have distinct customs, rituals and clothing. The Lahu, Akha and Lisu have languages with common linguistic roots (Yi/Lolo of the Tibetan/Burman family of languages) and into Thailand from via Burma. Mien (or Yao) speak languages from the Sino-Tibetan family and came via Laos. These five are all found in larger numbers beyond the borders of Thailand. The origin of the Karen is believed to be southeast Tibet but the majority now live in Myanmar (Burma).

With the exception of the Karen, the hill tribes did not start moving into the hills of Northern Thailand in large numbers until the 20th century. Some of the largest migrations did not take place until after the political upheavals triggered by the communist and socialist revolutions of China, Burma and Laos.

Living in remote upland areas, the hill tribes were left to practice subsistence agriculture relatively undisturbed until the 1950's.

Then their increasing numbers, their poverty and the threat of insurgency encouraged the government to exert greater control.

The National Committee for the Hill Tribes was formed in 1959 to "integrate the hill people into Thai society, while allowing them to preserve their culture". The government began an extensive primary school programme in upland areas.

However, the slash and bum techniques of shifting cultivation used by the hill tribes to grow food crops and opium poppies increasingly conflicted with national efforts to preserve watersheds against deforestation and to curb drug production. To address these problems, Royal Projects and both government and international aid development projects began promoting cash crops such as coffee, red kidney beans, potatoes and cabbages. The programmes have been very successful in bringing hill tribe villages into the cash economy and in reducing opium production.

The success has led to the loss of the traditional way of life, however. The tribes have increasingly had to abandon shifting cultivation in favour of rotational cropping and permanent field systems. In addition they have often had to relocate from their preferred habitats in high areas near primary watersheds. Increased contact with the commercial culture of the lowlands and with Buddhist and Christian missionaries has brought many changes. Many tribal people are abandoning their customs based on their beliefs in the spirit world and the annual agricultural cycles.

The tribes have adapted with different degrees of success. The Karen, who traditionally inhabit the lower slopes of mountains up to 800 metres, have been integrating for centuries and many are now like northern Thais. The Hmong, Lisu and Yao, who usually occupy the highest areas on mountains, have shown skill in making money while keeping many of their old traditions and customs. The Lahu and the Akha, however, have experienced greater difficulty.

Learning How to make Hill Tribe Handicrafts

The Trekking Collective, offers courses in weaving, ceramics, basketry, and wood carving. Tuition is by local handicraft artisans with the assistance of interpreters. The handicraft season is when there is little farm work so the time of the year is important if you are considering enrolling. To get the best from the course, enrol for a full week ($100/day). 25/1 Ratchawithi Rd. (Tel 419079; fax 419080; e-mail: trek-collective@cm.ksc.co.th).

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