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| Tourism Attractions Around Chiang Mai | Home - Map - Area Map |
Lamphun remains a small provincial town on H106. The quieter pace of the city makes it an attractive destination for those interested in historical culture. The old city is in the shape of an oval surrounded by lotus-filled moats and by the River Kuang on the east side.
Lamphun (formerly one of the oldest cities in Thailand), predates Chiang Mai by several centuries. Northern Thai chronicles suggest the city of Haripunchai was founded by some Buddhist monks in 661AD, but the actual date may have been as late as the mid ninth century. The chronicles tell how some Buddhist monks wished to establish a city and invited Queen Chamadevi from Lopburi to be the first ruler (a statue of the queen stands in a small park near the south-west corner of the old city moats). The city survived Lawa attacks and eventually assimilated the Lawa and other ethnic groups. The city was part of the Mon Dvaravati civilisa tion which developed along trade routes from the Gulf of Martaban to the Chao Phraya River basin and beyond to the north and east. Queen Chamadevi's dynasty lasted till the mid 11th century, when the city may have been tempo- rarily evacuated due to a cholera epidemic. However it remained as the centre of the valley until it was captured by Mangrai in 1281.
Mangrai used the city as his capital for four years before seeking a better place. From the foundation of Chiang Mai in 1296, Lamphun has been dominated by its northern neighbour.
Wat Chamadevi (Wat Kukut. 1 km west on to Sanpatong. Trishaw 20 Bt.) Two chedi that are the sole intact remains of the Dvaravati civilization in Thailand stand in the grounds of this temple. The larger of the two chedi is a square stepped pyramid made of laterite. Known as the Mahapol Chedi (or the Suwan Chang Kot Chedi), the original chedi dates back at least to the l0th century. It has since been enlarged and renovated. The four sides at each level contain three standing Buddha images in niches. The frames around the niches are highly decorated with stucco. The chedi at Wat Chedi Liem in Wiang Kum Kam is a copy of this design. A second smaller octagonal chedi of similar age is known as the Ratana Chedi. It has eight standing Buddha images in the first section above, its base.
The adjacent modern viharn contains a mural that depicts King Viranga of the Lawa throwing a javelin towards the city.
Common in temples with links to the Mon people, the hong is believed to take the souls of the builders of the temple to heaven. Wat Phrathat Haripunchai (Inthayongyot Rd. East side).
This temple is one of the most famous temples in Northern Thailand. Large lions guard the main entrance gate that faces the River Khuang to the east. A reclining Buddha image fills a small building nearby. The temple grounds form a square with a 46 metre high chedi at its centre. The chedi is said to have been built on the site of Queen Chamadevi's palace. Construction on the chedi probably began in the late 9th century but is was enlarged at the beginning of the 12th century. The chedi took its final shape during the reign of King Tilokarat in the 15th century. The parasols at the corners and on the pinnacle of the chedi were placed by Kawila. The nine tiered umbrella at the top is said to be made of 68kgs of gold. The chedi is in the Sri Lankan style which reflects the origins of Theravada Buddhism in the area. On the full moon day of the sixth lunar month an annual homage and bathing ceremony of the Phrathat is held. The main viharn, a large structure containing the Phra Chao Thongtip Buddha and several smaller images was rebuilt in 1925. South of the viharn is a small 19th century scripture repository. Moving west along the south wall of the sanctuary, one finds a small sala with four Buddha footprints within each other. In the south-west corner a small museum has a fine silver Buddha image in the Haripunchai-style as well as several good examples of 15-16th century Lanna Buddha images. Next to the museum on the south side is the Than Chai viharn. The viharn contains a standing Buddha image as well as some remarkable murals that were painted in the 1950's. The west and north walls depict Buddhist hells and the east and south walls scenes from the coming of the next (Maitreya) Buddha.
In the northwest corner, the small Suwanan Chedi was built in 1467 as a replica of the original at Wat Chamadevi. Finally, the who would compound contains a red Shan-looking structure holding a bell and a large gong.
(1km east across narrow bridge over the River Kuang in front of Wat Phrathat Haripunchai.) Located in a grove, the temple has a chedi with a large square base and four tall standing Buddha images in arched niches. The old site is said to go back to the 11th century when a large standing Buddha image was built in the grove. The temple was expanded when Phra Sumana Thera stayed for two years around 1370. His visit is recorded on the oldest stela in the Chiang Mai valley, which still stands under a small shelter near the entrance to the temple. An English explanation of the writing is provided at the site. Old residents have recorded that the original structure at the site of the present chedi was a mondop with a pinnacled wooden roof (the mondop in the ubosot of Wat Phra Singh is thought to be a loose copy of this vanished structure).
The structure had four standing Buddha images twice the height of the present ones. The chedi was rebuilt in a Burmese-style at the beginning of this century.
Open Wednesday to Sunday 0830 - 1600. 10 Bt.)
The museum contains a good display that includes some excellent examples of Haripunchai art.
(l.5km - follow the narrow road north-east along the banks of the Kuang for a kilometre; a lane to the north called Thanon Kuchang leads to the site.)
Local people have left many carved wooden elephants in front of the first of two chedis at Ku Chang. Queen Chamadevi's legendary elephant is said to be buried here.
Lamphun has a small guest house (on the north side of H1015 before Wat Chamadevi), a Chinese hotel on Inthayongyot Road and at least one love hotel. but they are not recommended.
Dao Khanong H106 East side 1 km north of old city Hrs: 1030-2130 Set on a patio under a large roof. Well-known for northern Thai food. which may be seen in large trays and bowls at the entrance Tel: 511552.
The Tor Rung Market next to the Chamadevi monument in the south-west corner of the moat has food stalls that operate day and night. 5everal shop-house restaurants may be found on the high street. The Kwang Tung noodle shop opposite Wat Phrathat Haripunchai serves noodles with prawn or crab Budget vegetarian food is served at the Lamphun Vegetarian restaurant on Wang Shine Road.
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9O3 tall Yang trees line H106 to Saraphi and end abruptly at the provincial boundary. Chao Phraya Surasi Kitisak, the governor of Chiang Mai is credited with having them planted in 1899. Each tree is numbered, the 779th being the largest and healthiest.
The hong or hamsa is a mythical gander linking the oceans with the sun and the heavens. It serves as a mount for Varuna and Brahma. It represents the breath, the foundation of our existence, and serves as the gatekeeper to heaven.
According to legend, Viranga's final attempt to win Queen Chamadevi's hand, ended in his death. She promised marriage if Viranga could throw one of three spears into the middle of Haripunchai from a nearby mountain (thought to be Doi Suthep). The queen, meanwhile, had offered Viranga the gift of a hat upon which she had smeared some of her menstrual blood.
Wat Phrathat Haripunchai